Tuesday, 14 September 2010

First time

So, I missed you guys. Shall I explane what has happened recently? You know, the life and so on. Probably you don't need any explanation why I haven't put a new post on the blog. Now I feel, as I said Rachel in the kitchen couple of minutes ago, I arrived to a new era, like it has happend to me when I got my first mobile. My life is split up the time before mobile phone and after that. So my blog evolved into a video blog. And now I don't have to say I was riding nice waves. Anyway, what would these plane words mean for you? Probably not too much, but now I don't have to say a word. Just watch it:

Thursday, 8 July 2010

Wave hunger

Ohhh, guys out there, I had so many topic ideas in my head. It was difficult to make a decision, I wanted to write about every topic, but I chose this. According to the psychodrama training now working, sleeping and surfing make up the trinity. I have little social life except in my job – ok it was my choice but I just realised I devoted myself so much to surfing that I forgot to build contacts to people, and I left my blog for a while too.

(A bad day)

In a nut shell, if you didn’t know, I changed my place of work. I’m now an employee at the Rocco’s Restaurant, which is part of Les Mielles Golf and Country Club near to the beach. It was time to say goodbye to my old job at Les Charrieres. As a barman and a quarter chef, I do full English breakfasts and bacon rolls, and being a short distance from the sea, sometimes I just grab my board and I walk about three minutes down to the waves.

Now my relationship with surfing has changed. My surfing skills kicked in these last few months, but I’m a less patient guy than before. I feel hunger for the waves, I always want to have them! And I’m not only anxious but angry when somebody takes the wave when it was mine! When you’re closer to the breaking point the wave is yours, even when you’re a beginner a pro should let you have it! So my head just could blow up when I turn into the wave and I see a pushy somebody doesn’t let me go.

However, believe me there are many bastards out there, I just could keep telling stories. This happened today, I was paddling to a huge monster wave, I wanted to avoid it before it broke on me. Some guys were trying to catch it, two of them got it and I had no choice so I had to keep going, and from the position I was in, the best way was to just aim towards the gap between them, allowing them to go. I got past the wave, and I felt something big splash right beside me. It was one of the guys, a teenager, he probably wasn’t able to control his board or he was just scared of the wave because he turned away from the wave, not giving a fuck if somebody was there! There is no one else like me, but there are many waves, you just should wait for them!

I am not perfect, I do mistakes in the water. Sometimes I have to escape, leave the board behind me and just dive down into the water, as I did today, because the fins on the bottom of boards are sharp. Ok, this was a tough situation, and it doesn’t happen so often.

(A gentle touch for Poseidon)

But anyway, it’s just amazing when you feel the moment of truth. When your paddling for a wave there is a critical point, the moment when you jump onto the board, your mind already knows what will happen, you just have to accept it. If your judgement is wrong and you’re lucky, you just roll back onto the back of the wave, but if the water wants to joke with you, you will learn how it is to be in a big tumble dryer.

But, if your judgement was good in that crucial moment and Poseidon smiles on you, you will feel which way leads to the heaven.

Tuesday, 11 May 2010

Songs from the kitchen 2.

Two chefs

I promised that I would let you know what has happened here recently. According to the psychodrama I start from work, family and private life trinity – sounds familiar guys out there? (And a footnote about this that family and private life could be put together and faith should be the third column – as you like it.)

So, Work. I saw the genuine Bruno. I’ve got a new job at Les Mielles Golf & Country Club, in Roccos restaurant and bar. So I’m getting out of the kitchen I’m serving drinks and light cooked food. Pretty nice jump for me, you know I started at the potato fields here, and I wanted to follow the regular way giving my termination notice, so called resignation notice, two weeks in advance. So I went to the office saying this and after the office, I went to the kitchen and at the end of the shift I told Bruno that I was leaving the place.

Jesus, within a sec his face turned into a furious Greek god’s face and he started teaching me about the right manner, etc. I just thought, what the fuck!, I let ‘m know on time that I could achieve some success, and you know, the first instinctive reaction is always the true. So I saw the true slave keeper Bruno. And the real uproar just burst out couple of days later.

That went like this, Bruno hadn’t been answering my greeting at any time since the night I told him I was finishing at the hotel. That morning the same happened but later on B. just came to me saying something like even if I don’t like him I could have greeted him. Eeerrr, what?! So from this moment I didn’t hold back myself, I was prepared for a moment like this, I made up myself, I won’t show my neck again and I won’t spend my remained time like a slave, and it was time to show him where the new borders are!

In this fierce row, he threw a lot bullshit to me for example, he had looked after me and that was my answer to his generosity. And I told him couple of days ago that I wouldn’t leave the island, which is true, I’m just leaving the hotel, following every details of resignation rules. Pointless to continue what was going on then and there.

But the peak point was when he was coming to me, I was at the sink, and I turned back going toward to him. We met at halfway our faces were about couple of inches from each other, showing to him I wouldn’t step back. I went right up to the line but I didn’t cross it. I showed him I could turn all my muscles, anger against him, and by now I’m quite musclefull guy :-), okay, he is also a sturdy, but you know this kinda stand up is usual among the animals. So I urinated around my new borders of my territory. And believe me, an act like that makes your soul clear and light as well.

By now there is a sort of unspoken agreement between us everyone does their job we communicate about the job, he is the boss in the kitchen, so I do everything properly like before, but no more polite or so called friendly conversation.

But I’m a kinda happy-end-lover guy, so I left a story about another chef in the end. Seven years ago I lived and worked in Cardiff. Once I was at one of the University’s kitchen. I got a two days assignment. Actually the job was dead easy, instead of eight hour shift the half could have been enough, so I had a lot time, and I talked a bit to the head chef and asked him what the hell I could do around there. He gave me a little homework, there was a store room in the kitchen where a huge pile of pots, sauce and fry pans, lids, ladles were chucked in and I was asked to organise somehow, not a big deal, but it was much better than sitting on my ass or bending against the wall and calling out the chef’s disapproval. Above all I just didn’t want to get dead bored.

At that time I was completely alone in Cardiff, I wanted to learn how far I could get with my own strength. I had been looking for work, flat, language school, etc., I wanted to rebuild a pretty nice life. I told these more or less to the head chef, and in the end of the job he came to me congratulated on my work and he told me that I would achieve my goals. Guys, these couple of words gave to me tremendous push and encouragement, and I was going home, actually not going but jumping (Hollywood rulez!).

Sunday, 25 April 2010

Surfer on a big wave

Guys out there, I owe an explanation to you! There have been so many things recently... First, about a month ago, I got a call for an interview from a Hotel, the things seemed to go on the right way at the farm where I worked before, and above all I got together with a woman. It looked like being at the top of a big wave which gives you a lot pleasure and you just feel being the right path on!

But within a week I got into a big turbulent current that threw and pushed me down. Nobody called me back after the job interview, so far; at the farm, there was a disaster, because the institute that represented our interest just swopped over the farmer, and finally I got a very polite message from representative of the institute, which sounds in properly translated English like this, hey guys, if you don’t like what you got, go back to your fucking home! I must repeat that the message was wrapped up into the most polite sentences I’ve ever read!

Eventually I and the woman broke up owing to ghosts in the hotel and in her head as well. I’ve written a couple of posts on the blog, but I always slept a day before I load them up. It was good decision, because they were full of emotions, anger and were too personal as well, that weren’t your business guys :-).

Well, I felt everything so perfect a month ago that I knew it can’t be so. And I wasn’t surprised when the doings turned into bad. When you feel you ride the perfect wave but another break just smashes you down. What can you do this time? If you can't grab your board, lose your body, it makes you faster out of the turbulence, and look for the next wave. Guys, I’ve been standing on the next wave. It’s not my previous Hungarian attitude, isn’t it?! Why? I’ll tell you very soon! Promise!!! :-)

Thursday, 18 March 2010

Bits and pieces about Hungarian history

15th March is one of the most important days in Hungarian history. The whole nation put together its power against the Habsburg royal family and rose fighting for independence. In an American movie now you could hear strong emotional music, at the beginning a lot of violins, later on some trumpets and drums would emerge from other tunes.


But, I really think this freedom fight was a pure, genuine one, regardless of the FACT, that we, Hungarians didn’t want to give the same freedom for those nations that lived under the Hungarian crown. Anyway, the whole nation just stood up for the freedom, independence, etc... , the music getting stronger again, and the whole country just put its economical and political potency under the military demands and we could keep up ourselves against the Habsburgs for more than one and a half years until the Russian tsar gave a hand to his royal relatives.


(Here Sándor goes) How did this whole buzz begin? Some youngsters, so called March Youth got together in the Pilvax Caffeé in the capital city, Pest-Buda and there they made up their mind that they would shout out a poem from one of his fellow poet, Alexander Petofi. So it is said that the revolutionists went to the National Museum where Petofi, in the patchy rain, spoke out the National Song in from of the gathered immense crowd. So that was said about the beginning. This bloke had written a tremendous number of poems about the freedom and fighting for it and dying for it.


BUT the brutal FACT is, that, in that very specific day, Petofi was shut up in his room, because his wife was afraid of that he might be hurt in the street...


It is FACT as well, that he died by a Russian soldier's spear in the last battle when he was escaping from the battlefield...


I explored his more-than-160-years-old poems by a music band that put some hard rock-blues tunes to the poems. Above all it is FACT that Petőfi Sándor was the biggest rock and roll face in the XIX. century! (Hang up the Kings - Johny Rotten would just admire him.)

Thursday, 11 February 2010

Surf trip on the mainland 6.

Where the trip ends, now


Yeah, I did exactly what I had planned, there was no hurry today, surfing at Crantock again, nice two hours session. When I started driving to Weymouth I just stopped to use my brand new mini camping gas stove. Being a nomad is a great feeling, I can stop anywhere, now I did at a car park beside the road to cook my 9p Tesco chicken soup after that I had a coffee, that’s perfect, like in a posh restaurant.


I got back Weymouth, now I’m exhausted, but things this way are good. As a pathetic bloke told once, hitting the road is the freedom, arrival is death. Tomorrow, by ferry, I’m arriving in Jersey, but this is just a temporary stop.

Wednesday, 10 February 2010

Surf trip on the mainland 5.

Where you’re suppose to go

Today project was very complicated: finding a place where I really could surf, not like yesterday. So I thought if I needed to drive 50 miles, Praa Sands or Penzance are on the bottom side of Cornwall, it didn’t matter just I wanted to use Tunnel Vision in proper circumstances. According to the Magicseaweed the combination of waves and wind seemed to me good at those spots, but just for sure I went to Boardwalk (or Overhead? so many shops beside each other), the place, where I bought a TV, and asked the seller. He told me that there was no point in going so far away, because the swell was coming from a different direction, in short, I got perfect advice how I could find good place for surfing.

So I just drove to Crantock, a small village next to Newquay. This bay is protected by hill against the wind, so it didn’t smash the waves. The view was gorgeous, at the right side of this wide sand beach there was a small river, so you could practice river surf too.


At the car park I met an Irish bloke, Ian, who had been living here for long enough to learn this place. We introduced ourselves to each other and our boards, too. He bought a brand new long board on Monday, and I got mine yesterday. It turned out that he had forgotten his leash at home, and surfing without that could be a big s.cks, if you have to swim always after your board, so I lent mine to him, because now I have two!


(Desert surfer) Eventually we got into the water, finding our cosy waves, and I was over the first when I realised I had already stood onto that by TV. We had 3-5 feet high waves, great rides for two hours! Ian promised he would leave the leash behind the first right wheel. He did, but I almost lost that because I almost completely forgot about it.


Tomorrow, surf again I think at the same bay, and after that go back to Weymouth, because I have to catch the ferry on Friday.

Tuesday, 9 February 2010

Surf trip on the mainland 3, 4.

Being arrived 3.

After a full British breakfast I went to the town to take pics from and of cliffs. I walked in the small streets and I felt the whole town makes a living from surfing. Long row of surf shops in the main street, you could hire board and wetsuit anywhere. Even if Newquay has only 20 000 habitant in summertime this figure jumps up to 100 thousand(s). Imagine three people squeezed in a normal bath, surfing here seems like this for me.

Around 10-11 am, I just saw that waves were good to ride them. I went back to the hotel, picked up my stuff, struggled to find a proper place (where I didn’t have to pay for parking), jumped into the half wet wetsuit, run into the water. It was challenging rather than perfect, but yeahhhhh, good! After about two-two and a half hours session I was back to the hotel, and next to do on my list was to find a pair of roller skate shoes.

(Don Quijote's nightmare via Truro) Ok it’s weird looking for roller skates in the capital of British surfing, but I promised to myself that I buy a proper pair on the mainland. I drove to Truro, it’s about 15 miles far from Newquay. I couldn’t find any but I have a new watch. The previous one, the Gul was taken away from me by the ocean in Jersey. I think we didn’t liked each other too much and it just went way. OK, go, be happy! But even though I have a new time meter it’s not the beginning of a new time period.

Tunnel vision 4.

My projects for today were surfing at Fistal and keep looking for proper roller skate shoes. I just went down to the town centre and started asking retailers about good pair of shoes. Eventually I find something that doesn’t have any blade on the middle and four wheels but it has three fins at the back end. Yeah, I must admit I bought, again, a board. Second hand, because until I’m good enough I won’t buy a new one! That is the agreement with me.

You can blame me that I have Tunnel Vision but it is literally true, that’s the brand name of my new board. So for £ 190, I could buy a full equipped nice board, nice red one, actually. The colour dynamic is overwhelming if you see this beside my blue Bilbo.

I didn’t hesitate and went down to the Fistal. The Fistal! One of the most famous surf places in the UK. Tough, choppy waves but I struggled two hours among them, so that I could feel this longer board. Bilbo length is a 6’2”, Tunnel Vision is a 6’10” one, but TV is less stable, much easier to get tilt at one of the sides and get off it. Today, a lot small waves hidden into the big ones did this favour for me.

Monday, 8 February 2010

Surf trip on the Mainland 2.

In the Capital of British Surf

Sidmouth or Bath, that was the question this morning, Sidmouth was the answer. On the way to there I had to stop at couple of places to take pics. I love the British countryside, and swinging on the slim roads isn’t comparable. The best place was an old motor museum somewhere around Seaton and Cloyford.

Down Sidmouth I asked a bloke about waves, and he told me, today I couldn’t expect anything good. Anyway, the upper side of south west peninsula is always better, from this angle. So after taking some breathtaking pics, again, there, I jumped back to the car and drove to Newquay, the capital of British surfing.

Amazing place, as far as I know the town has about 20000 inhabitant, it’s not a big one, but how little sugar candy! I just could take a quick look to the Fistal, I saw the swell, ahhh, clear lines-up, and the water, not like that dirty, sink risen liquid at Kimmeridge, but clear, deep blue. I just stormed in the middle of the town and, at the town beach, got into the water. Imagine a magical place, where there is a sand beach divided by couple of huge rocks, some of them connected by bridges to each other. Just wow! The whole place is about surf! You can come across surf board fabric shops everywhere. I found the Bilbo factory (My first board is a Bilbo, but when I was writing this post this was the only one)! You can book in advance to learn how to surf at every second house.

I wasn’t sure that I would be able to surf today. But I managed it. I met a carpenter guy and his mates at the car park, he showed me the shortest way to the water, and gave me some advice. Eventually I could ride for one or one and a half hour. According to the magicseaweed two-three perfect days are coming!

Sunday, 7 February 2010

Surf trip on the Mainland 1.

Hit the road

Yesterday I got on the ferry with my car and with my rumbling stomach. Instead of getting worse I just fell asleep owing to the swinging ship. I woke up in Weymouth. First mission was to get prepared for the next day, which meant I had to find a place to spend the night. It was quick, the seafront was full of hotels and guest houses. 20 quid per night, perfect.

Message to Nadine that I’m alive, wasn’t wiped out by the storm, didn’t sink into the water, and actually I arrived at the place where I wanted. After I thought I solved a problem just got another one. I wasn’t able to send a message from any of my SIM cards. So next day's program was to find out what happened to this technical device, get internet connection, buy a mini gas stove and above all find a surf place.

This morning I saw the bay, from my window. Not bad! After spending my morning taking some tourist pics and solving this technical disturbance (but I don’t still have internet connection) I just kept asking people about good surf spots. Three were recommended, but Kimmeridge “Kem’ridzs” won, because a sales guy from a surf shop told me this is the most popular location.

I was struggling on the way there, just kept asking people about the right direction, fortunately I met a couple who live there, and they offered to lead me there. So I got there fair fast. The view was spectacular, like before the way down there.

It was completely different, not like waves in Jersey, they were fast, entirely unpredictable, coming from two, three directions, duration was high, but they looked like lower and wider, so I went among them, and that sucked! The water was dirty, the bottom was rocky – ok it was told to me that place is a reef break. Even though it was worth doing this!

Tomorrow, heading to Sidmouth, where I wanted to get today, but I changed my mind, anyway, I like this way. Maybe I’ll drive up to Bath, and after visiting that, I’ll go to west Cornwall, Newquay, Bude, Polzeath, etc.

Monday, 18 January 2010

Songs from the kitchen 1.

First, Andrew, our English teacher at Highlands Collage, told me an English EXPRESSION about FOTEL. It is WING BACK CHAIR (Three words)!

Since Rob went I tried to make a good friendship in the Big Freeze (Quoted Sky News). My new friend could not move, actually he doesn’t have any legs, and his arms is too short on his white, ball formed body. No problem, differences cannot put obstacles in the way of a really good friendship!

But first we had some difficulties in our communication. When Rob was here he helped me to improve my English and I thought my new friend would do the same favour for me. However, it seemed to me, in short, my English is much better so I considered that it was my turn to give something back! I have patience, time is on my hands, what else do I need? But soon after I realised it led to a dead end, without answers to my efforts, it’s useless!

Okay, let’s do other thing. Body language is a boundless, independent at cultural background so I started teaching my friend how to surf. It seemed to me a brilliant idea, because after I took off the fins from my surfboard we could have done surfing on the slope behind the building where I live. I prepared to the next day, I checked the forecast as I do when I go out surfing. The wind is gentle, 5 mph, temperature is a cosy 8 Celsius, but I haven’t seen my new friend again...

Anyway, life is heroic. I do what I have to do here. Last time, I saw ten ninjas were attacking a young woman and her three children at St Peter’s Co-op in the car park. And I was there. You know people, they usually just try not to notice what can disturb their normal life. Ten ninjas could be very disturbing for them, as they are about to kill a young woman and her infants. So everybody was packing into their trunk, as if the ninja attack was as normal as staying half an hour inside the shop at the till. But I was there!

So many hours that I’ve spent watching Chuck Norris, Bruce Lee, Jean-Calude Van Damme and above all STEVEN SEAGAL in movies weren’t wasted! I could turn all the benefit that I got from them into real martial art skill in a sec. I don’t pull your time saying how I killed the faceless, cruel, well equipped fighting machines one by one. By now they all are in the morgue. But one of them could touch my face causing a bruise around my left eye. His death was very slow and painful. But it’s just enough to mention that after the bloody massacre people burst into a loud ovation. You know, when people don’t want to realise something and somebody stops the reason they are disturbed by then they are grateful. What is the moral? If you don’t want to be a hero don’t go shopping.


I hope this story is more enter-taining than putting down that the wind smashed my board in my face, and that caused the deep red mark around my eye...

Tuesday, 5 January 2010

The classy board and the comfy chair

Since I was back here, I've been feeling everything temporary around myself, even though I bought a car and a board – big enough to come across ‘em. These items belong to me but are replaceable, so first I didn’t have particular emotional connections with them. The car and the board represent the freedom and the mobility in my life, and not only represent however also mean!

I recently found a special so-called cushioned chair, this one now rules my room. I came across this throne in the local charity shop, where I looked for a collapsing chair because I’m very short of space. Usually I go buying things with a special purpose (and I never do shopping!) BUT when I saw and positioned my body into that object I was thinking how I could rearrange my room so that I would be able to squeeze in this royal equipment (later about this).

Even though I’m not a big bargain hunter I got the chair £ 12 pounds instead of £ 20. I can imagine the same game in a Turkish bazaar. When you hear the first offer your face suddenly turns into surprise and torment caused by the nonsense of words. However this way you show you’re interested in possessing the item! So after the first bid, £ 20, the seller dropped the price to £ 15 and I felt if I could get this so easily I can obtain a little bit more. So sad face, showing the price causes pain for me but I would take it if only ... Eventually the shop lady told the last bid 12! Then I know that’s it. It is mine. But I felt I shouldn’t have shown my happiness immediately otherwise I’d prove I lied, of course I did, but playing our roles consistently is part of the game. So my face changed, the pain went but I left a pinch of sour expression on it and after couple of seconds hesitation I went to the till with this gorgeous armchair.

When I got it home I started finding out how can I find the right position for the jewel of my room. A drawer is part of every room’s basic equipment, so I grabbed this and the TV on its top and put everything in the wardrobe. If I want to watch telly from my cushioned armchair I have to open the wardrobe door, but it demands too much effort. Anyway I can sleep very well in that, of course at first I always say to myself I study English or read a book or watch a movie (in English), but after 3-5 minutes I fall asleep.

I frankly have to tell you that I’m a little bit disappointed about the fact that there is not a suitable short English word about my perfect chair. Easy chair is two words, like cushioned chair (but even this doesn't exist in English); or carver or recliner is ... I literally don’t know; throne is too royal; Rob told me Chesterfield but these options don’t give the same emotional effect like the Hungarian word FOTEL. Fotel is perfect! It involves the convenience, the perfect size, the prestige that this chair possesses.

By now this item is the central point of my room and life. Usually I don’t throw away my clothes on it, I dry my towels as less as possible on its back, so it has made things (involved me) more organised! I feel now my room is more like a home, therefore my chair must have an aura!

Eventually how can my comfy, home maker chair, which brings about feeling of being settled down, and my frog green car, which gives me mobility and freedom, make a perfect combination? I can put the first one into the second one and I can make a home at anywhere.