Wave hunger

Ohhh, guys out there, I had so many topic ideas in my head. It was difficult to make a decision, I wanted to write about every topic, but I chose this. According to the psychodrama training now working, sleeping and surfing make up the trinity. I have little social life except in my job – ok it was my choice but I just realised I devoted myself so much to surfing that I forgot to build contacts to people, and I left my blog for a while too.

(A bad day)

In a nut shell, if you didn’t know, I changed my place of work. I’m now an employee at the Rocco’s Restaurant, which is part of Les Mielles Golf and Country Club near to the beach. It was time to say goodbye to my old job at Les Charrieres. As a barman and a quarter chef, I do full English breakfasts and bacon rolls, and being a short distance from the sea, sometimes I just grab my board and I walk about three minutes down to the waves.

Now my relationship with surfing has changed. My surfing skills kicked in these last few months, but I’m a less patient guy than before. I feel hunger for the waves, I always want to have them! And I’m not only anxious but angry when somebody takes the wave when it was mine! When you’re closer to the breaking point the wave is yours, even when you’re a beginner a pro should let you have it! So my head just could blow up when I turn into the wave and I see a pushy somebody doesn’t let me go.

However, believe me there are many bastards out there, I just could keep telling stories. This happened today, I was paddling to a huge monster wave, I wanted to avoid it before it broke on me. Some guys were trying to catch it, two of them got it and I had no choice so I had to keep going, and from the position I was in, the best way was to just aim towards the gap between them, allowing them to go. I got past the wave, and I felt something big splash right beside me. It was one of the guys, a teenager, he probably wasn’t able to control his board or he was just scared of the wave because he turned away from the wave, not giving a fuck if somebody was there! There is no one else like me, but there are many waves, you just should wait for them!

I am not perfect, I do mistakes in the water. Sometimes I have to escape, leave the board behind me and just dive down into the water, as I did today, because the fins on the bottom of boards are sharp. Ok, this was a tough situation, and it doesn’t happen so often.

(A gentle touch for Poseidon)

But anyway, it’s just amazing when you feel the moment of truth. When your paddling for a wave there is a critical point, the moment when you jump onto the board, your mind already knows what will happen, you just have to accept it. If your judgement is wrong and you’re lucky, you just roll back onto the back of the wave, but if the water wants to joke with you, you will learn how it is to be in a big tumble dryer.

But, if your judgement was good in that crucial moment and Poseidon smiles on you, you will feel which way leads to the heaven.