First time

So, I missed you guys. Shall I explane what has happened recently? You know, the life and so on. Probably you don't need any explanation why I haven't put a new post on the blog. Now I feel, as I said Rachel in the kitchen couple of minutes ago, I arrived to a new era, like it has happend to me when I got my first mobile. My life is split up the time before mobile phone and after that. So my blog evolved into a video blog. And now I don't have to say I was riding nice waves. Anyway, what would these plane words mean for you? Probably not too much, but now I don't have to say a word. Just watch it:

Wave hunger

Ohhh, guys out there, I had so many topic ideas in my head. It was difficult to make a decision, I wanted to write about every topic, but I chose this. According to the psychodrama training now working, sleeping and surfing make up the trinity. I have little social life except in my job – ok it was my choice but I just realised I devoted myself so much to surfing that I forgot to build contacts to people, and I left my blog for a while too.

(A bad day)

In a nut shell, if you didn’t know, I changed my place of work. I’m now an employee at the Rocco’s Restaurant, which is part of Les Mielles Golf and Country Club near to the beach. It was time to say goodbye to my old job at Les Charrieres. As a barman and a quarter chef, I do full English breakfasts and bacon rolls, and being a short distance from the sea, sometimes I just grab my board and I walk about three minutes down to the waves.

Now my relationship with surfing has changed. My surfing skills kicked in these last few months, but I’m a less patient guy than before. I feel hunger for the waves, I always want to have them! And I’m not only anxious but angry when somebody takes the wave when it was mine! When you’re closer to the breaking point the wave is yours, even when you’re a beginner a pro should let you have it! So my head just could blow up when I turn into the wave and I see a pushy somebody doesn’t let me go.

However, believe me there are many bastards out there, I just could keep telling stories. This happened today, I was paddling to a huge monster wave, I wanted to avoid it before it broke on me. Some guys were trying to catch it, two of them got it and I had no choice so I had to keep going, and from the position I was in, the best way was to just aim towards the gap between them, allowing them to go. I got past the wave, and I felt something big splash right beside me. It was one of the guys, a teenager, he probably wasn’t able to control his board or he was just scared of the wave because he turned away from the wave, not giving a fuck if somebody was there! There is no one else like me, but there are many waves, you just should wait for them!

I am not perfect, I do mistakes in the water. Sometimes I have to escape, leave the board behind me and just dive down into the water, as I did today, because the fins on the bottom of boards are sharp. Ok, this was a tough situation, and it doesn’t happen so often.

(A gentle touch for Poseidon)

But anyway, it’s just amazing when you feel the moment of truth. When your paddling for a wave there is a critical point, the moment when you jump onto the board, your mind already knows what will happen, you just have to accept it. If your judgement is wrong and you’re lucky, you just roll back onto the back of the wave, but if the water wants to joke with you, you will learn how it is to be in a big tumble dryer.

But, if your judgement was good in that crucial moment and Poseidon smiles on you, you will feel which way leads to the heaven.

Songs from the kitchen 2.

Two chefs

I promised that I would let you know what has happened here recently. According to the psychodrama I start from work, family and private life trinity – sounds familiar guys out there? (And a footnote about this that family and private life could be put together and faith should be the third column – as you like it.)

So, Work. I saw the genuine Bruno. I’ve got a new job at Les Mielles Golf & Country Club, in Roccos restaurant and bar. So I’m getting out of the kitchen I’m serving drinks and light cooked food. Pretty nice jump for me, you know I started at the potato fields here, and I wanted to follow the regular way giving my termination notice, so called resignation notice, two weeks in advance. So I went to the office saying this and after the office, I went to the kitchen and at the end of the shift I told Bruno that I was leaving the place.

Jesus, within a sec his face turned into a furious Greek god’s face and he started teaching me about the right manner, etc. I just thought, what the fuck!, I let ‘m know on time that I could achieve some success, and you know, the first instinctive reaction is always the true. So I saw the true slave keeper Bruno. And the real uproar just burst out couple of days later.

That went like this, Bruno hadn’t been answering my greeting at any time since the night I told him I was finishing at the hotel. That morning the same happened but later on B. just came to me saying something like even if I don’t like him I could have greeted him. Eeerrr, what?! So from this moment I didn’t hold back myself, I was prepared for a moment like this, I made up myself, I won’t show my neck again and I won’t spend my remained time like a slave, and it was time to show him where the new borders are!

In this fierce row, he threw a lot bullshit to me for example, he had looked after me and that was my answer to his generosity. And I told him couple of days ago that I wouldn’t leave the island, which is true, I’m just leaving the hotel, following every details of resignation rules. Pointless to continue what was going on then and there.

But the peak point was when he was coming to me, I was at the sink, and I turned back going toward to him. We met at halfway our faces were about couple of inches from each other, showing to him I wouldn’t step back. I went right up to the line but I didn’t cross it. I showed him I could turn all my muscles, anger against him, and by now I’m quite musclefull guy :-), okay, he is also a sturdy, but you know this kinda stand up is usual among the animals. So I urinated around my new borders of my territory. And believe me, an act like that makes your soul clear and light as well.

By now there is a sort of unspoken agreement between us everyone does their job we communicate about the job, he is the boss in the kitchen, so I do everything properly like before, but no more polite or so called friendly conversation.

But I’m a kinda happy-end-lover guy, so I left a story about another chef in the end. Seven years ago I lived and worked in Cardiff. Once I was at one of the University’s kitchen. I got a two days assignment. Actually the job was dead easy, instead of eight hour shift the half could have been enough, so I had a lot time, and I talked a bit to the head chef and asked him what the hell I could do around there. He gave me a little homework, there was a store room in the kitchen where a huge pile of pots, sauce and fry pans, lids, ladles were chucked in and I was asked to organise somehow, not a big deal, but it was much better than sitting on my ass or bending against the wall and calling out the chef’s disapproval. Above all I just didn’t want to get dead bored.

At that time I was completely alone in Cardiff, I wanted to learn how far I could get with my own strength. I had been looking for work, flat, language school, etc., I wanted to rebuild a pretty nice life. I told these more or less to the head chef, and in the end of the job he came to me congratulated on my work and he told me that I would achieve my goals. Guys, these couple of words gave to me tremendous push and encouragement, and I was going home, actually not going but jumping (Hollywood rulez!).

Surfer on a big wave

Guys out there, I owe an explanation to you! There have been so many things recently... First, about a month ago, I got a call for an interview from a Hotel, the things seemed to go on the right way at the farm where I worked before, and above all I got together with a woman. It looked like being at the top of a big wave which gives you a lot pleasure and you just feel being the right path on!

But within a week I got into a big turbulent current that threw and pushed me down. Nobody called me back after the job interview, so far; at the farm, there was a disaster, because the institute that represented our interest just swopped over the farmer, and finally I got a very polite message from representative of the institute, which sounds in properly translated English like this, hey guys, if you don’t like what you got, go back to your fucking home! I must repeat that the message was wrapped up into the most polite sentences I’ve ever read!

Eventually I and the woman broke up owing to ghosts in the hotel and in her head as well. I’ve written a couple of posts on the blog, but I always slept a day before I load them up. It was good decision, because they were full of emotions, anger and were too personal as well, that weren’t your business guys :-).

Well, I felt everything so perfect a month ago that I knew it can’t be so. And I wasn’t surprised when the doings turned into bad. When you feel you ride the perfect wave but another break just smashes you down. What can you do this time? If you can't grab your board, lose your body, it makes you faster out of the turbulence, and look for the next wave. Guys, I’ve been standing on the next wave. It’s not my previous Hungarian attitude, isn’t it?! Why? I’ll tell you very soon! Promise!!! :-)

Bits and pieces about Hungarian history

15th March is one of the most important days in Hungarian history. The whole nation put together its power against the Habsburg royal family and rose fighting for independence. In an American movie now you could hear strong emotional music, at the beginning a lot of violins, later on some trumpets and drums would emerge from other tunes.

But, I really think this freedom fight was a pure, genuine one, regardless of the FACT, that we, Hungarians didn’t want to give the same freedom for those nations that lived under the Hungarian crown. Anyway, the whole nation just stood up for the freedom, independence, etc... , the music getting stronger again, and the whole country just put its economical and political potency under the military demands and we could keep up ourselves against the Habsburgs for more than one and a half years until the Russian tsar gave a hand to his royal relatives.

(Here Sándor goes) How did this whole buzz begin? Some youngsters, so called March Youth got together in the Pilvax Caffeé in the capital city, Pest-Buda and there they made up their mind that they would shout out a poem from one of his fellow poet, Alexander Petofi. So it is said that the revolutionists went to the National Museum where Petofi, in the patchy rain, spoke out the National Song in from of the gathered immense crowd. So that was said about the beginning. This bloke had written a tremendous number of poems about the freedom and fighting for it and dying for it.

BUT the brutal FACT is, that, in that very specific day, Petofi was shut up in his room, because his wife was afraid of that he might be hurt in the street...

It is FACT as well, that he died by a Russian soldier's spear in the last battle when he was escaping from the battlefield...

I explored his more-than-160-years-old poems by a music band that put some hard rock-blues tunes to the poems. Above all it is FACT that Petőfi Sándor was the biggest rock and roll face in the XIX. century! (Hang up the Kings - Johny Rotten would just admire him.)

Surf trip on the mainland 6.

Where the trip ends, now

Yeah, I did exactly what I had planned, there was no hurry today, surfing at Crantock again, nice two hours session. When I started driving to Weymouth I just stopped to use my brand new mini camping gas stove. Being a nomad is a great feeling, I can stop anywhere, now I did at a car park beside the road to cook my 9p Tesco chicken soup after that I had a coffee, that’s perfect, like in a posh restaurant.

I got back Weymouth, now I’m exhausted, but things this way are good. As a pathetic bloke told once, hitting the road is the freedom, arrival is death. Tomorrow, by ferry, I’m arriving in Jersey, but this is just a temporary stop.

Surf trip on the mainland 5.

Where you’re suppose to go

Today project was very complicated: finding a place where I really could surf, not like yesterday. So I thought if I needed to drive 50 miles, Praa Sands or Penzance are on the bottom side of Cornwall, it didn’t matter just I wanted to use Tunnel Vision in proper circumstances. According to the Magicseaweed the combination of waves and wind seemed to me good at those spots, but just for sure I went to Boardwalk (or Overhead? so many shops beside each other), the place, where I bought a TV, and asked the seller. He told me that there was no point in going so far away, because the swell was coming from a different direction, in short, I got perfect advice how I could find good place for surfing.

So I just drove to Crantock, a small village next to Newquay. This bay is protected by hill against the wind, so it didn’t smash the waves. The view was gorgeous, at the right side of this wide sand beach there was a small river, so you could practice river surf too.

At the car park I met an Irish bloke, Ian, who had been living here for long enough to learn this place. We introduced ourselves to each other and our boards, too. He bought a brand new long board on Monday, and I got mine yesterday. It turned out that he had forgotten his leash at home, and surfing without that could be a big s.cks, if you have to swim always after your board, so I lent mine to him, because now I have two!

(Desert surfer) Eventually we got into the water, finding our cosy waves, and I was over the first when I realised I had already stood onto that by TV. We had 3-5 feet high waves, great rides for two hours! Ian promised he would leave the leash behind the first right wheel. He did, but I almost lost that because I almost completely forgot about it.

Tomorrow, surf again I think at the same bay, and after that go back to Weymouth, because I have to catch the ferry on Friday.