Having three weeks gap in my life, here I am again! A little bit wired when you spend your so-called holiday in your country, you can feel like being tourist. Mostly I tried to have good time at my friends and my parents, more or less it’s succeeded. Though I find some new directions for driving my life forward, I had lost the track. I wouldn’t put details here, those who met me know what I’m writing about.
Having my time in Hungary just like being floated, I didn’t have to wake up early and go to work. But I could meet some good mates, even in the middle of a day, because they are unemployed and surprisingly a few want to go abroad. I just could recommend it for everyone. So fuck off Hungary if you don’t need us!
When I came back the feeling like being nowhere went on. Doing the same thing like before isn’t enthusiastic and falling in the continuous aimlessness is, in short, shit.
So I started to organise my life here, making a tough schedule, ok, not so rigorous daily program but it gives me a pattern! After the first shift I start studying English and besides going down for swimming and being in the sauna. I was just able to do this at the first couple of weeks, but now the most important thing, surfing is back in my life!
I abso-fuckin’-lutely missed it but first the water wasn’t my best friend.
(...) Sometimes it is just sucks, because after half hour paddling I'm not able to get at the right place owing to the massive, high and frequent waves. Though I had good surf later, I couldn't ride at St Ouen for the first three days.
This happend to me yesterday, I way peeling off my wetsuit, when a guy showed up and we started to chat. He told he was heading to St Brelades, I haven't surfed there before, but I heard about that. He also told that there were a bunch of surfers already. So it was worth checking that. Errr, towel at my waist, got in the car, drive it down and yeah, waves were perfect at the bay! Decent size, not too tough and frequent. After half hour suck at St Ouen a deserved gift waited for me at St Brelades.
As you can see at the Hungarian post I bought my wintertime wetsuit. It's two time thicker than my summertime one, I feel as if some heater was inside. But I have to squize my whole body through the hole at the chest, and it's like putting on a sock around my waist and shoulders, uhhhh.
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